Doublet with a Short Tab, anonymous, c. 1680 - c. 1688
Isn’t a nipped waist the height of femininity? The silhouettes of the fashionable 19th-century cycling jacket and the 1950s black jacket are indeed intended to accentuate feminine lines. And yet the black doublet (centre), with a similar waistline, was considered the epitome of a masculine garment in the 17th century. Doublets were originally worn by soldiers under a coat of mail.