Gown with a belt, anonymous, c. 1818

silk, More details

During the first quarter of the 19th century, rouleaus, wadded rolls or coils, were often used to embellish dresses. These coils could be made out of various materials and in differing thicknesses, as well as in contrasting colours or patterns. The fabric was cut on the bias to ensure that the rolls could be filled to the maximum and puff out sufficiently.