Corset cover, Guillay et Cie Succrs Capdeville, c. 1910
From the moment the hoop skirt (crinoline) went out of fashion in Paris in the 1860s, Dutch women had their metal hoops bent backwards into an oval by the blacksmith. A long, slender silhouette with emphasis on the buttocks was now expected and so the bustle (tournure) began its rise, sometimes incorporated into a skirt but also as a loose piece fastened around the waist.